SKIN CARE GLOSSARY

SKIN CARE GLOSSARY

SKIN CARE GLOSSARY

SKIN CARE GLOSSARY

A

ACNE

Acne is a skin condition that occurs when your hair follicles become plugged with oil and dead skin cells. 

This causes whiteheads, blackheads, or pimples. 


This oil produced by your skin is totally normal and necessary for healthy skin! It's when there is too much oil that it clogs your pores. That's why it is important to have a good, regular skin care routine and to keep your body clean.

active ingredient

The ingredient in a product that is biologically active. 

These are the ingredients that carry the molecules of the product down through the layers of the skin.

alpha hydroxy acids (AHA)

A natural acid found in food. AHA's include citric acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and others. 

They're mainly used for dry skin, aging, or acne. 

AHA's work by removing the top layer of dead skin cells and increasing the thickness of the deeper layers of the skin, promoting firmness.

antioxidant

A substance that counteracts or inhibits oxidation. 

Oxidation is a chemical reaction that can produce free radicals, thereby leading to chain reactions that damage the cells. 

This is the root cause of aging. 

ashwagandha root

For preventing and healing acne.

Ashwagandha root has both antibacterial and antimicrobial properties which protect the skin from infections or acne. It also boosts the collagen in the skin which prevents it from ageing. If you suffer from acne, you should try natural face packs with ashwagandha powder.


astaxanthin

A reddish orange pigment that, when applied to the skin, protects against sunburn, reduces wrinkles, and other signs of aging. Studies have shown that astaxanthin is an even more powerful antioxidant than Vitamin-C. 

B

bearberry

Bearberry is a natural skin brightener that helps achieve a more uniform and brighter complexion. It can eliminate age spots, acne scars, freckles, and melasma. 

beta hydroxy acids (bha)

BHA's drastically reduce the signs of aging. They reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while improving overall skin texture, without irritation. This is most commonly salicylic acid. 

blue-light radiation

Blue light is a visible light on the spectrum and is a high-energy, short wavelength light. This is not UVA or UVB rays, but we are exposed to it by the sun as well as the light from technology. In other words, we're exposed to blue light radiation all day long!

Blue light contributes to eye strain and other eye diseases, messing up our circadian rhythm, but also to hyperpigmentation and the breakdown of collagen in the skin.

A breakdown of collagen causes wrinkles and skin laxity.

It's becoming more and more important to use products with ingredients that counteract this. 

boysenberry

Rich in magnesium and B9, boysenberry provides essential vitamins and minerals to your skin as well as phytochemicals - believed to protect against cancer, heart disease, boost immunity, and prolong life. For your skin, this means reduced aging!

C

chemical exfoliant

A chemical exfoliant is an acid that gets rid of dead skin cells. They come in different concentrations, some mild, and some strong enough that they need to be applied by a dermatologist. They work by breaking the bonds that hold the dead skin cells together. As these bonds are broken, the top layers of the skin cell sheds, revealing regenerated skin beneath. 

collagen

Collagen is the main structural protein found in the skin and other connective tissues, which makes it incredibly important! It is responsible for skin strength and elasticity, strengthens blood vessels, and plays a role in tissue development. A breakdown in collagen is what causes the signs of aging. 

comedones

A comedo is an open (blackhead) or closed (whitehead) skin pore or hair follicle that's been clogged by oil, dead skin cells, and/or bacteria.

d

detox

A skin detox may include added exfoliation to remove build-up of dead skin cells or simply cutting back on the amount and usage of make up. 

double cleansing

Cleansing twice in a row in order to ensure that the skin is clean and clear before applying any moisturizer. This can be twice with your cleanser or once with a make up remover and then with a cleanser.

e

eczema

A medical condition in which patches of skin become rough and inflamed. This causes itching and bleeding, sometimes resulting from reaction to an irritant but more typically having no obvious external cause. Eczema can vary in severity, sometimes including blisters and sometimes appearing as a rash.

emollient

An ingredient or product that softens or soothes the skin. 

emu nectar

This serum is naturally rich and balanced in essential omega 3, 6, and 9 fatty acids.

Emu Nectar contains natural antioxidants that help fight against the signs of aging - such as wrinkles or sunspots. It is one of the most effective oils for hydration of the skin and is recommended for people who have dry skin or who want to protect their skin from climatic conditions.

It is composed of healing and calming compounds such as linoleic acid, oleic acid, and palmitic acid. These compounds give our serum superior anti-inflammatory qualities, repair cell damage, and boost the production of collagen, which helps keep skin supple, youthful, and acne free.

For occasional irritations such as wind or sunburn, climate changes, air travel or extra dry skin, our pure Emu Nectar can be your remedy.

Emu Nectar also functions as a great make-up remover. 

f

frankincense carterii

Originating from Africa, India, and the Middle East, frankincense oil has been important both socially and economically as an ingredient in incense and perfumes for thousands of years. Frankincense oil is prepared from aromatic hardened gum resins obtained by tapping Boswellia trees. One of the main components of frankincense oil is boswellic acid, a component known to have anti-neoplastic properties.


Studies have shown that not only does frankincense reduce the signs of aging, but that it also targets cancerous cells from normal cells and works to suppress cancer cell viability. 

It is anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, and anti-fungal. 

It can help ease joint pain.

The scent itself, when inhaled, is shown to ease stress and boost the immune system. 

free radicals

A free radical is an atom, molecule, or ion that has an unpaired valence electron. This means that it is unstable. It is made during normal cell metabolism and builds up in the cell, causing damage to other molecules, such as DNA, lipids, and proteins. This causes oxidation, which causes cell breakdown and aging.

Free radicals are cause either from normal metabolic processes or by external sources such as exposure to X-rays, ozone, cigarette smoke, air pollutants, and industrial chemicals. These days, they are hard to avoid, but easy to counteract with anti-oxidants. 

french maritime pine bark (pycnogenol)

This extract provides many benefits to the skin, including reducing the visible signs of aging. Not only does it enhance the skin’s ability to produce more hyaluronic acid to help maintain hydration, but more importantly, it also helps with collagen production.


Pine bark extract is a research-backed ingredient that’s a potent antioxidant. It helps to fend off free radicals and has also been shown to restore elasticity within the complexion. It is derived from maritime pine bark and can be applied topically or taken as a supplement to absorb its good-for-skin benefits. It’s been studied for several years to determine its effects on skin and aging.


When applied topically, it works at the cellular level to selectively bind to collagen and elastin. Its natural anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties also help to reduce hyperpigmentation. And what’s more, while many superstar ingredients are too potent for the most sensitive skin types, that’s not the case with this antioxidant. FMPB is a great choice for all skin types, especially those that are susceptible to redness, irritation, sensitivity, or those with symptoms of rosacea or other inflammatory conditions.


fragrance-free

Simply put, a product that does not contain chemical perfumes. This doesn't mean unscented, however! Our products are scented by natural essential oils.

g

glycolic acid

The smallest AHA. 

h

humectant

An ingredient or product that reduces the loss of moisture. 

hyaluronic acid

Also known as hyaluronan, it is a gooey substance that is naturally produced by your body.

Its main function is to retain water and to keep your tissues well lubricated and moist. 


Hyaluronic acid makes your skin look plump and supple. Its effects are instantaneous and visible. It also plays a role in wound healing and can speed up the process. It is anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory. 

hydrate / hydration

What is the difference between hydration and moisturization? 

Hydration is water, moisturization is oil.

You much keep your skin both hydrated and moisturized to ensure it looks plump and supple!

hyperpigmentation

A common and usually harmless condition in which patches of the skin become darker than the normal surrounding skin. 

This can be melasma, sunspots, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation caused by acne. 

Hyperpigmentation can be treated with products that contain brightening benefits or by treatments such as IPL or peels. 

I

inflammation

Inflammation generally occurs when your immune system is attempting to fight off foreign invaders. It can be a reaction to infections, a skin condition, or an allergic reaction. Or it can be a symptom of dermatitis, psoriasis, and other skin conditions. If you are unsure what is causing inflammation, it causes you distress, or it worsens, you should see a professional for diagnosis. 

Inflammation may be smooth or scaly, it may itch or burn, it may be raised or flat, it may be warm, it may have pimples or blisters, it may be cracked and dry, or it may simply be redness. 

There are a lot of causes to inflammation as well as symptoms. 

k

keratosis pilaris (kp)(chicken skin)

A condition that causes rough patches and small, acne-like bumps on the skin. Usually on the upper arms, thighs, cheeks, or buttocks. 

This condition develops when the skin produces too much keratin, which can block hair follicles and cause bumps to develop. 

This isn't serious and usually disappears by age 30. 

Often, caring for the skin will cause this to lessen or disappear altogether. 

l

lactic acid

Also known as lactate, lactic acid is a chemical byproduct of anaerobic respiration - the process by which cells produce energy without oxygen around. Bacteria produce it in yogurt and our guts. 

Lactic acid is used to treat hyperpigmentation, age spots, and uneven complexion. 

It is a very mild AHA. 

lipids

Any class of organic compounds that are fatty acids and are insoluble in water but are soluble in organic solvents (such as acetone). This includes natural oils. 

m

melasma

A common pigmentation disorder that causes brown or grey patches to appear on the skin, primarily the face. Melasma can be caused by hormonal changes during pregnancy or from sun exposure. Ingredients that brighten the skin can be used to treat this. 

micellar water / cleansing water & toner

Made of purified water, moisturizers, and mild surfactants for cleansing the skin. 

These surfactants join to form micelles, a type of spherical chemical structure that helps pull dirt and oil from the skin.

Micellar water is not only gentle, but highly effective at removing make up, dirt, and oil while toning the skin.

moisturize / moisturizer

What is the difference between hydration and moisturization?

Hydration is water, moisturization is oil.

You much keep your skin both hydrated and moisturized to ensure it looks plump and supple!

molecular size

A measure of the area a molecule occupies in three-dimensional space. This determines just how far the ingredient will sink into the layers of the skin. Larger molecules sit closer to the surface, while smaller molecules penetrate deeply. Our Emu Nectar works as a carrier oil to carry molecules to their maximum depth. 

n

non-comedogenic

A product or ingredient will not clog pores or hair follicles. 

o

occlusive

Occlusive moisturizers contain ingredients that create a barrier on top of the skin that helps prevent trans-epidermal water.

p

parabens

Parabens are a class of widely used preservatives in cosmetic products. There has not been a study done on their affects on the skin, however, they have been decided undesireable. JOËLLE MARTINE is paraben-free.

pentapeptides

A type of peptide that has five (penta) amino acids. They boost the skin's moisture content and are theorized to function as skin-restorative ingredients. 

prebiotic

Prebiotics are an intriguing group of ingredients making skin care headlines because of the important role they can play in addressing a variety of skin concerns. Their gut-health benefits when consumed orally are well-established through research, and now emerging studies are shedding fascinating light on how topical prebiotics can help when applied to skin.


Prebiotics are essentially foods consumed by probiotics. Probiotics are the good bacteria in and on the body that keep our bodies balanced and healthy inside and out.

Experts around the world consider probiotics fundamental to being healthy and youthful, and since prebiotics are the natural partner to probiotics, having both gives you the best of both worlds. As it turns out, the benefits of prebiotics and probiotics in our gut are also apparent when these ingredients are applied to skin.


Applying prebiotics to skin helps probiotics thrive so they can:

Keep the surface of skin—its first line of defense—balanced, younger-looking, and strong.

Offset factors that lead to redness, dryness, and a weakened surface.

Ward off signs of aging skin.

Restore a healthy microbiome balance (good bacteria). 

psoriasis

A condition in which skin cells build up and form scales and itchy, dry patches that may look like a rash.

Psoriasis is thought to be an immune system problem. Triggers include infections, stress, and cold.

r

resveratrol

Found in red wine, resveratrol acts like an antioxidant, protecting the body against signs of aging. 

retinyl palmitate (Vitamin-A)

Vitamin-A helps to speed up healing, prevent breakouts, and support the skin's immune system. It promotes natural moisturizing. 

rosacea

A condition that causes redness and often small, red, pus-filled bumps on the face.

It can also appear as visible blood vessels on your face. 

Symptoms may flare up for weeks to months and then go away for a while.

Left untreated, it tends to worsen over time. 

rose oil / rose petals

When applied to the skin, rose oil hydrates dry skin, clears acne, reduces signs of aging, minimizes the appearance of scars, and helps with conditions such as eczema and rosacea. 

s

salicylic acid

The most commonly used BHA. It's well-known for reducing acne by exfoliating the skin and keeping pores clear. 

sebum

Sebum is an oily, waxy substance produced by your body's sebaceous glands. 

While necessary for healthy skin, an excess of sebum can cause clogged pores and oily skin. 

sensitive skin

Sensitive skin is a common issue, but not a medical diagnosis in itself. 

The term generally refers to skin that is more prone to inflammation or adverse reactions. People with sensitive skin may have strong reactions to chemicals, dyes, and fragrances that come into contact with the skin. 

skin barrier

The outer surface of the skin including the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis. It is composed of skin cells, lipids, and natural moisturizing factors like amino and fatty acids. 

A damaged skin barrier looks dull and feels rough or dry. A healthy skin barrier is soft, smooth, and plump. 

sun protection factor (spf)

A measure of how much solar energy (UV radiation) is required to product sunburn on protected skin relative to the amount of solar energy required to produce sunburn on unprotected skin. The higher the SPF, the more the skin is protected.

SPF30 is the most common and blocks 97% of UVB rays. 

SPF50 blocks 98%, so the difference is about 1 percent. 

stratum corneum

The outer layer of the skin (epidermis), it serves as a barrier between the body and the environment. 

strawberry

Since strawberry is high in Vitamin-C, it has amazing anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and anti-acne benefits. 
Strawberries are rich in a number of antioxidants, including ellagic acid and anthocyanin. Ellagic acid applied topically has been shown to reduce skin damage from the sun’s UV rays by inhibiting certain enzymes that contribute to the collagen breakdown, and by diminishing inflammatory responses.
If you often wake up to dark circles and puffy eyes in the morning, strawberries may be able to help. Strawberries have astringent properties that can help provide a natural way to treat puffiness in the eye area and reduce inflammation.

Strawberries contain alpha hydroxy acids, which help to eliminate dead skin cells and cleanse the skin. If your complexion is rough and dull, applying strawberries to your skin can have noticeable results.

Strawberries also contain salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid which can help reduce hyperpigmentation and dark spots. Salicylic acid is used in many skincare products to remove dead skin cells and tighten the pores to keep out dirt and bacteria that could cause future breakouts. The vitamin C in strawberries can also contribute to keeping skin healthy and vibrant, working as a toner to soothe irritated skin.
There is also some evidence that higher levels of acne are associated with lower blood levels of antioxidants, such as those in strawberries.

t

toner

A toner is a lotion or a wash designed to cleanser the skin and shrink the appearance of pores. 

Many of our products have ingredients that act in the same way that a toner does. 

v

vitamin-c

Vitamin-C is a vitamin that isn’t actually produced by the body. Instead, the only way to get it is through supplements or your diet — citrus fruits like oranges are famously rich in vitamin-C. And it has vital functions throughout the body.


Vitamin-C is an essential nutrient in tissue repair and the enzymatic production of various transmitters.

Topically, it’s 20 times more potent than the oral intake.


For one, vitamin-C promotes collagen production, which has the potential to thicken the dermis, diminish fine lines, and is essential for firm, supple skin. On top of that, vitamin-C is an antioxidant.


It also inhibits melanin production in the skin, which helps to lighten hyperpigmentation and brown spots, even out skin tone, and enhance skin radiance. Finally, vitamin-C helps to repair damage from sun exposure and collagen loss by encouraging healthy cell turnover and regeneration.